Saturday, August 9, 12 noon – 4pm Swan Lake Day Park.
We’ll be pouring Kettlehouse Cold Smoke on tap along with an assortment of fun beers to accompany our oh-so-delish Carnitas Street Tacos at the annual Swan Lake Huckleberry Festival. Stop by and say Hi and grab some tacos, a cold one, and a piece of Huckleberry Peach Pie.
Archive for the ‘Montana bed and breakfast’ Category
Saturday, August 9, 12 noon – 4pm Swan Lake Day Park.
Day 22 – Patagonia
I’ve been here for twenty two days, Here being Patagonia– the Chilean side. I’ve come for the fishing and my fly rod has been wet for twenty one days (it sits on the porch) – twenty one days of buffeting wind and monsoon rains that have blown out the Yelcho River and turned the towering Andes into a sci-fi fairy land of a thousand waterfalls criss-crossed with vivid rain bows.
Although I’ve not actually gotten on the water, I have had several hours of dry land (ok, really wet land) casting practice with sinking line; and am learning to tie my own flies.
Despite the rains, the clients who have come to Puma Fishing Lodge in these weeks have all departed most pleased with their experience. Traveling via the comfortable PUMAII across Lago Yelcho to Rio Futalafu, our last group of six caught on average 100 fish a day. Massive browns and feisty rainbows, most in the 6 -10# range, were the standard each day and everyone was successful.
A new group arrives today and I am doing last minute prep on the menus and packing food for the transfer from the lodge to the PUMAII for a five day cruise. Although my main responsibility is chef, our American guests have invited me to fish with them and our Montana guides have assured me that there is a big brown with lots of attitude just waiting for one of my newly tied flies.
Day 31 – Patagonia
Rain. Rain. And Rain. Oh, did I mention ‘rain’?
I have seen the sun all of two days and not complete days at that.
Gentle rain, wispy rain, curtains of rain, solid walls of rain. Cold rain.
Warm rain. Vertical rain. Horizontal rain. And when the wind gusts, rain that appears to travel right back up to the sky. And I won’t begin to describe the winds…we’ll save that for another day.
I think I am over rain, but it is not quite over me yet, so I am running away for Christmas. Running north to Santiago. Beautiful, hot, dry Santiago. For a few days I will have the opportunity to complain about the heat and use my lip balm to counteract the arid mountain air.
Day 35-38 – Santiago
SUNSHINE! I feel like Snoopy doing a Happy Dance, chasing my tail in glee. The Ice Breaker wool, polypro and rain jacket are stashed away and the trekking skirt and cotton blouse are on-as well as the sunscreen.
Santiago is vibrant as Christmas approaches. Not quite the shopping insanity of Estatos Unidos, but the pressure is obviously building.
I have embraced the Latin dining schedule (which is a bit tough as I am very much a morning person), spending my days walking and exploring finally sitting down at 10pm for a leisurely dinner. Christmas Eve I treated myself to dinner at one of Santiago’s finer establishments – Baco – an evening of indulgence beginning with a sinful foie gras accompanied with a delightful Dry–Farmed Old Bush Vine Carignan 2010 (Maule, Chile). (Since California has now outlawed foie gras -and other states will most likely follow- I seem to have acquired a taste for it…and yes, I’ve also acquired the necessary guilt to enjoy it completely.) An unidentified baked local chevre came next atop some beautiful, seemingly just picked lechuga. The cheese was aromatic and pungent with just enough rind chew to embrace the silky core. A classic cassoulet followed brimming with duck and sausage. My two hour dinner (now approaching 11:30pm) was topped off with a fresh berry zabaglione and restretto. Strolling out into the balmy evening air amongst hundreds of others enjoying the coolness, I almost missed the rain…not!
Christmas Day will find me on a tour to Valparaiso and Vina del Mar on the coast…more sunshine and more suncreen! Merry Christmas.
The festival is sponsored by the Flathead Valley Community College Foundation in support of scholarships and grants for deserving students. The week long event includes private chef’s tables, wine and beer tastings, and food workshops located around the Flathead Valley.
As with her successful bi-weekly Chef’s Tables held each summer, Kathleen’s dinner for 12 will feature mostly organic, local provender and be paired with a selection of wines. The dinner is $125 per person with $75 tax deductible. To make reservations, call 756-3632 or visit www.fvcc.edu/festival.html.
A Taste of Provence
Fromage avec de la confiture de figues
Cambozola baked with gooseberry preserves and served with meringue walnuts and Mediterranean flatbread
Lavendar Poche Salade d’artichauts
Petite French purple artichokes poached in lavender served with grilled golden beets,
heirloom tomatoes and lavender infused champagne balsamic dressing
Pour: (suggest a Roussillon)
Alouette aux Figues et Noisettes
Armagnac roasted young quail stuffed with figs and hazelnuts
Tartelette au fromage de chèvre et poire
Pear & Goat Cheese Tart
The April issue of Montana Magazine featured The Horse in an article written by Sydne George. Titled “Seasonal Sensation”, George captured the true nature of the lodge and owner Kathleen Moon in words and photos that reflected the warmth and hospitality that for thirteen years has been the hallmark of this small Swan Lake lodge and bistro.
From the initial welcome by Nikki and Cooper, the two resident golden retrievers, to the morning ‘hello’ from Sampson the African Grey parrot, guests quickly understand that this is not a ‘motel as usual’ stay.
Currently celebrating a luxurious fall, the Horse is offering up a two night all-inclusive package featuring great wines and Chef Kate’s signature dishes from the kitchen. To discover this ‘seasonal sensation‘ before the late October closing, visit www.laughinghorselodge.com to learn more about the Fall Package and to make your reservations.
The Kalispell Chamber of Commerce, fresh off the incredible success of the recent Dragon Boat Races, is bringing the Spartan Race to Flathead Lake Lodge on May 11 & 12, 2013. This outrageous (and very muddy) challenge of physical and mental prowess will pit some incredible examples of human engineering against the likes of …well…the likes of you and me. The two day event looks to be a fun way to spend a couple of days watching fit (and not so fit) but definitely crazy folks pit themselves against a 4 mile obstacle course (including a very large hill) while carrying packs of rocks…just kidding, well only slightly.
For those racers visiting from out of the area, the Horse is offering up a Thursday – Saturday package of a three night stay with early-out gourmet breakfast each morning; a three course dinner with beer or wine upon arrival on Thursday evening; and a fun practice run on Friday up a local mountain (the Horse will provide packs and rocks if requested!). Races begin bright and early on Saturday and Sunday at Flathead Lake Lodge located only 25 minutes from the Horse.
Package 1: Single occupancy in a queen room, three nights, three breakfasts, and welcome dinner – $155. Package 2: Double occupancy in a queen room, six breakfasts, and two welcome dinners- $209. Package 3: Four singles in the Bunk Room, 12 breakfasts, four welcome dinners- $660 (or $55/person per day).
The Horse is located in the village of Swan Lake, eighteen miles south of the host town of Bigfork. Extreme racers are invited to unwind and relax before and after the races while enjoying the award-winning hospitality (and hot showers!) of the Horse. To reserve your package, write to Kathleen at firstname.lastname@example.org.
I was catering a political fundraiser on Swan River this past summer where many of the invited guests were long-time customers of the Horse resulting in a rather blurred line between being a hired service and just another attendee.
For some guests – those not my customers – the line was not blurred at all. They would not address me nor make eye contact; I was to them, just the hired help – invisible unless needed. To be gracious, most of these folks were fairly new to the community, coming from metropolitan areas where class lines are more apparent and, I suspect, being held onto with renewed vigor as the ongoing recession brings those ‘with’ a little closer to those getting by ‘without’.
As the event matured and the provided banquet was rendered down to a few remaining (and wilting in the late afternoon heat) crudités, my catering attire was removed, the hair came down, and I became just another professionally dressed guest interested in the politics of the day. Moving from one conversation cluster to another around the deck, I was now being introduced by friends to those very people who an hour before moved about me as if I were a cipher.
The handshakes; the eye contact; the ‘pleased to meet yous’ were all genuine, as were the brief but unmistakable contractions of the pupils and the slight furrowing of the brows that occur when one’s perspective of reality shifts.
This shift of perspective looms large among the reasons why I stay in such a small community when I obviously enjoy the activities and opportunities of big city life and exploring the lesser known areas of the world through my winter travels. Although it wasn’t always so.
When I came here 13 years ago – ‘dragged here kicking and screaming’ by my then partner who ‘just had to be in Montana!”- I justified the move with those trite and true plaudits of “clean air, clean water, open space, blah, blah, blah…”. It has taken years and much growth to realize that although those might have been a few of the reasons for coming here, the reasons for staying are much more complicated because they revolve around the people more so than the place.
Thirteen years isn’t a very long time…a blink really, but for me it is a quarter of my life spent in one place. An unthinkable reality 14 years ago when a three year stint in an apartment or a job was considered long –term. But as the years have moved inexorably onward I find myself caught up in the warp and weave of this tapestry that is the community of Bigfork extending defacto to Swan Lake.
The event on the river last summer offered up in a definitive moment what keeps me here – and in a word it is leveling. This place has a strange power to level out society’s ‘haves’ and ‘have littles’ -or more accurately the ‘have differents”.
Like water seeking its own level, these folks that would not share anything in the big city, find themselves perhaps at first in some kind of commerce; whether it be firewood, water, grounds-keeping, boat maintenance, etc. But then both parties find themselves invited guests at a fete on the river; or dining next to each other at the Horse; or sharing elbow space and a beer at the Garden Bar.
I love introducing the retired multi-millionaire Republican building a 10,000 sq ft home on the lake to the Don’t Tread On Me man cutting firewood and living in a 600 sq ft cabin off the grid. Watching the interaction – first the commerce, perhaps of buying firewood, followed by the curiosity – of both parties. It is in this display of curiosity that the leveling begins as each begins to learn something of the other and to find respect for choices made, if not full agreement in the choices themselves. By making introductions and watching similar interactions over the years, I’ve learned that those that show no curiosity in the other generally don’t make it here, regardless of what side of the economic scale they are on.
Watching the transition of both sides – the leveling as it were – I can’t but marvel at how quickly we humans can adapt to shifting environments. And much like Darwin’s conclusions, those that won’t adapt simply disappear, or in the case of Bigfork, either put their property on the market and go back into the striated life from whence they came or truly disappear into the wilderness as self-sufficient as their explorer forbearers.
For those of us who stay, however, the rewards are incalculable.
Although summer is not quite over, we’re looking forward to a marvelous and very colorful fall here in the Swan Valley. With cool nights already occuring, the autumn foilage should be brilliant…and what better way to enjoy the crisp days of fall than with a roaring fire and a delicious glass of merlot in hand?
So if you haven’t had the chance to leave the office or the ranch this summer, now is the time to make your plans to let Kathleen and her staff spoil you rotten with good food, good wine and a comfortable bed.
Our fall package includes:
♦Two nights of lodging for two
♦Gourmet dinner for two each evening with a bottle of wine personally selected by Chef Kate to compliment your meal. (Dinner includes one appetizer, two organic lodge salads, two entrees and one dessert.)
♦Gourmet breakfast for two each morning including French Roast Coffee and freshly baked scones.
Package Price $289 (gratuity not included)
Our autumn package is available September 7 – October 30, Wednesday to Sunday only.
Enjoy a two hour trail ride up the Swan Front to view the magnificent autumn colors. Two hour ride for two – $140
Experience the beauty of Swan River in all of its glorious fall foliage with a Guided River Float for two. Three hour float with brown bag lunch for two – $150
Bliss out with your own private in-room (or weather-permitting, lake-side) massage. One hour massage $75, two consecutive massages $140.
When Booking Your Autumn Escape: When making your secure on-line reservations, select your two nights and in the note field write: Autumn Special. Include in the notes any add-ons. Upon finishing your reservation, you will receive an automatic confirmation for rooms only…Kathleen will adjust your reservation with package details and pricing and resend a new confirmation.
We look forward to welcoming you to the Horse.
Join us for our first ‘Free Fall’ Tuesday on June 14th as we explore the culinary offerings of the Pacific Rim.
Put your taste for epicurean adventure (say that fast three times!) into our hands for an evening of beautiful food inspired by the great chefs of Singapore, Maui and Kauai, Hong Kong and even San Francisco. We’ll be featuring all natural meats, wild fish, organic cheeses, and, for the first time, organic greens and vegetables from the Horse’s garden! Each course will be matched with a wine selected by Rocky Mountain Wine Distributors.
Our Pacific Rim Menu
Ceviche of Prawns, Scallops and Lobster -in passion fruit citrus over organic spicy micro greens and slivered green papaya
Brie and Mango Quesadilla in Roasted Tomato Tortilla -with cilantro macadamia nut pesto
Roasted Maui Onion and Goat Cheese Salad -organic Tyee spinach and fresh mandarin orange with Haixin basil vinaigrette
Grilled Natural Pork Tenderloin Medallion and Wild Mushroom Polenta -marinade of Makers Mark and fresh pineapple juice with warm pineapple chutney
Chilled Sticky Black Rice Ball Infused with Ginger and Maui Honey -with young coconut ice cream
Secured reservations are limited to 24 people. Dining room opens at 6:30pm, dinner begins at 7:00pm. $65 per person with wine, $39 without wine.
Winter is quickly loosening its grasp on Swan Lake, although the shadowed snow drifts will probably remain until well into May. But with the temperatures nearing 50, thoughts turn to spring and the inevitable crush of a fun-filled, visitor-packed summer.
While the Horse still slumbers under several feet of snow, and Chef Kate still lingers somewhere near the equator, plans are underway for an exceptional year of good food, music and even better Montana hospitality at Laughing Horse Lodge.
So where exactly is our intrepid hostess? We caught up with Kathleen at a remote 5 star eco-resort on the west coast of Panama where for the past few months she has been guest chef, teacher, student and explorer…a typical winter for this 12 year Montana resident.“I originally came to Panama to build up my Spanish so that I could bring in a South American guest chef for the summer and have a way of communicating in the kitchen,” says Kathleen. But not satisfied to have just one ball in the air, the study trip turned into a temporary gig at one of Panama’s newest luxury resorts, Boutique Hotel Cala Mia located on an isolated Pacific island in the Archipelago Chiriqui.
“This has been an experience in self-sufficiency and creativity,” laughs Moon as she recounts the first trip to Isla Boca Brava…a two hour journey by bus, cab and boat from the nearest town. “ I arrived all jazzed only to discover that there wasn’t a single piece of chocolate on the island and it would be two more weeks before anyone was going shopping back on the mainland.”
Surrounded by troops of howler monkeys, noisy parrots, and a 3’ iguana living in the thatched ceiling of her bungalow, Kathleen went to work (without chocolate) with the property’s Italian owner Vittoria Ghini, establishing a Spanish-language SafeServe-style training program for the kitchen, setting up an on-line reservation system, and giving the island chef a break each week. “It’s been a real struggle in the kitchen being ‘forced’ to work with fresh fish and lobster brought to the dock each afternoon,” Moon quips, a smile in her voice. “I’ve also learned a bit about making artisan cheese…and in Panama of all places.”
Ghini, and her Dutch husband Max, opened the resort 4 years ago and support the dining room at Cala Mia with an extensive organic farm and dairy operation located a few kilometers east on the island. Fresh arugula, herbs, aubergine, peppers, tomatoes and a dry-land rice are produced, as well as organic butter, cream and an outstanding Gouda.
Building and maintaining a luxury eco-resort and an accompanying organic farm with a small but state of the art dairy processing facility would be a challenge even in the US or Europe, but to do so on a remote second-world island with a single car ferry (built by Max) and the feat becomes extraordinary.
“These people are impressive,” states our traveler, “my highest complement to Vittoria and Max would be that with their independence and entrepreneurial abilities remind me of many of the Montanans I’ve befriended over the years.”
Kathleen returns home just in time to participate in the annual Taste of Bigfork on May 1st. She’ll be bringing with her new ideas and a renewed dedication to providing even more organic offerings on her already outstanding menu.
The dining room at Laughing Horse Lodge reopens May 20th with dinner served Wednesday – Sunday, from 5pm. Reservations are highly suggested.
“Cuando los ingredientes son óptimas, la cocina puede ser simple.”
“When the ingredients are optimum, the cooking can be simple”.
No truer words have been written, especially when it comes to fresh –beautifully fresh – fish still redolent of brine, eyes bright, firm fleshed and loaded with culinary possibilities. Last evening four Americans showed up at the dock, a stringer of corvina (sea bass) in hand, and a request for dinner. The menu was already set for the Cala Mia dining room, and with only 30 minutes before the hotel’s guests would be arriving, an uncomplicated dish was required.
I remembered reading David Shalleck’s Mediterranean Summer, a biographical journal of his first year’s as Chef on a luxury sailing yacht in the Med, and how he was challenged to create new dishes every day using only the freshest of ingredients for his discerning and demanding owners. Cheffing at an isolated island resort is similar to cooking on a yacht…you just can’t make a quick run to the market when the whim hits you. So you get creative and simplify, simplify, simplify…and use what your location offers up…in this case fresh fish.
One of Shalleck’s ‘go to’ recipes was Pesce in Acqua Pazza (Fish in Crazy Water), a traditional Neapolitan dish that exemplifies simplicity. With Cala Mia’s ‘go to’ guy, Beto, cleaning the sea bass, I began to assemble the dish. Thirty minutes later, as our four fishermen finished their first course of organic gazpacho with Feta and virgin olive oil, their pesce was served. After the ‘oohs and aahhs’, silence reigned as they quite obviously enjoyed their dish. (Although I would like to take full credit for its success, the kudos go to the Neapolitans who for centuries have mastered the art of simple, yet elegant dishes; and of course, the tasty corvina.)
Pesce in Acqua Pazza (Cala Mia Style)
Fresh fish…the best is flaky fish like halibut, snapper, bass or grouper.
Firm, ripe tomatoes
Kalamata Olives (optional)
Virgin Olive Oil
Sea salt and white pepper
[Although this recipe is designed for cooking whole fish, I have adjusted it to individual-serving stoneware oven-to-table dishes.]
Brush the ramekins with olive oil.
Cut fish into 1″ chunks and season lightly with salt and pepper.
Layer the ramekins with thinly sliced leeks, zucchini and a touch of minced garlic.
Place the fish chunks on top of the vegetables.
Place thinly sliced tomatoes over the fish.
Sprinkle with minced parsley, a bit of diced kalamata olives and capers (rinse both well to remove excess brine).
Drizzle with olive oil and cover for the oven.
Note: The dish will appear somewhat dry, however, after 15 minutes in a 350 degree oven, the fish will be simmering in a lovely bath of ‘crazy water’. Do not overcook!